Apparently this is what’s happening in my Hawaii neighborhood…. Thanks @therealsupahaole - this made my day. I’ll be back real soon! (at Ala Moana Bowls)
This is what I surfed in this morning. I was even amazed at how hard core I was… #victoryatsea #stormsacomin #surfing #surfergirl #hardcore #junobeachpark #northpalmbeach #florida (at Juno Beach Ocean Park)
Today was, to pull from the most cliche surfing movie ever, like the last scene in Point Break when they are in the pouring rain and Swayze paddles out to victory at sea. I rented the biggest piece of shit board, it was torrential downpour, waves were like a freaking washing machine, and I haven’t surfed in 7 months - except for yesterday.
It was just me out in the break and the lifeguard up in his little shack. Not a soul on the beach, not a soul in the water, two or three guys fishing off the pier.
I paddled out and baby, let me tell ya, it was turn and burn all day. I surfed until I could surf no more. I had every wave to myself and they were nice rolling waves, like corduroy in the pouring rain. I probably wouldn’t have paddled in but it started to thunder and lightening… and even I’m not that stupid.
So stoked I missed my plane last night!
Crappy rental car, crappy rental board - and I don’t really give a shit! Goin surfin in the rain - cheeee! #surfing #surfboard #JunoBeachPark #northpalmbeach #florida (at Juno Beach Ocean Park)
Sarah’s sailboat #sailboat #marina #intercoastal #SingerIsland #WestPalmBeach #Florida #lifeatsea (at Singer Island, FL)
Finally got a sun and sea fix. And then missed my plane later that evening… So looks like it will another day of this! #diving #sun&sea #ocean #waves #beach #MacArthurStateBeachPark #NorthPalmBeach #finallygotmyfix (at MacArthur State Beach Park, North Palm Beach)
Borrowed a board from this kid and caught a bunch of waves! Haven’t surfed in like 7 months and hopped up like I’d never stopped. A great feeling! And just what I needed…. Perfect.