Floridians In Hawaii
Damo Hobgood and Evan Geiselman assess conditions.
North and South side of Juno pier….
It has been full blown victory at sea for more than a week now. Rough seas, high winds, heavy currents, grey clouds and rain.
The weather outside has indeed, been frightful.
I have to make myself go surf each morning. And I’m good about it. I get up and I surf. I know I always feel better when I do. Even endless summer has winter… Winter can be dark…
It was my third day at Jupiter Inlet. Because the pier was too crazy….
And I caught my waves. Crowded again today but more spread out.
It’s just such a pitchy wave. When I catch it and rip it, I fucking rip it. But there is a lot of kook potential too. It’s making me better though.
True, a cold rainy morning, but it doesn’t matter in the water wearing the right thing. Built up quite the wetsuit quiver by now and it keeps growing. Ankle to wrist full, a short shorty, a booty suit, among a few others. I actually have to wear wetsuits here…. which sucks a little… But I wear really cute ones…
It just rained and rained and rained. Surfing is about the only fun thing to do in the pouring rain. But it’s like, really really fun to do in the pouring rain. I actually kind of love it.
Today felt the 30 year storm at the end of Point Break…. Yes, I went there. And as long as I’m here… does it bother anyone else that only a few days after Johnny Utah learns to surf, he’s getting barreled? What the fuck…
My boyfriend and I stayed up late and watched it last night. It’s so, so bad and yet, we couldn’t look away.
How did this post go from surfing in Jupiter to Point Break….?
Cold day… first time in a full wetsuit. Crowded lineup jockeying for not a lot of waves. BUT finally I got props! Me! I chose my wave and ripped it and when I paddled back out, the guy next me said, “damn girl, you got skills! Was not expecting that out of you…” Um… thank you… I think?
#JupiterInlet #Jupiter #Florida #jupitersurfreport #gooddayforawetsuit… (at Jupiter Inlet)
Thanksgiving view… Thank goodness my best friend always takes me in : ) #sailboat #sunset #SingerIsland #PeanutIsland #Florida #thanksgiving (at Singer Island, FL)
I drove up to Juno and Jupiter this morning ~ but somehow ended up in the twilight zone…. Weird fucking morning….
Standing on the pier, just looking at the waves this morning, I was approached by what one can only assume is the village idiot.
Him: hey are you local…?
Me: kind of, not really… I live here now but I’m not from here….
~ small talk inserted here ~
Him: so what’s your story? You’re always out here alone…. A girl like you doesn’t have a husband and a bunch of kids….?
He really said that….
Me (rather incredulously): um…. no………
Him: what are you one of those crazy girls or something?
Me: um…. what….?
Him: well, you know it’s not too late. You know guys have all kinds of time but you girls, you don’t have forever. But it’s not too late yet, ya know.
This actually happened.
I think I just stood there looking absolutely mortified but I’m not exactly sure because my body went numb and my mind seemed to fade to black…. I turned around and walked to my car and he hollered behind me, “hey, where ya goin….?” And then I pretty much cried all the way home.
Why would a stranger ever feel like such questions are ok…? Why is it not ok that I’d don’t have a husband and kids? I mean really, what the fuck?!
I didn’t feel like I was strange on the island because it was just me. I felt like there were a lot of people in their 30s who were not married with kids. But now here on the mainland, all of a sudden I’m a fucking weirdo. This love affair with the mainland is waning…. Actually, fuck this….#dawnpatrol #JupiterInlet #jupitersurfreport #Jupiter #Florida (at Jupiter Inlet)